International
Black chefs carve out a place in Brazilian cuisine
| By AFP | Louis Genot |
From a tiny restaurant on a dead-end street come the enticing aromas of chicken, pork and shrimp as an award-winning chef slowly steams dim sum — the finger food typical of Cantonese cuisine.
This is not Hong Kong but rather Rio de Janeiro. And the cook is a black Brazilian.
“Many people ask me, ‘Where is the Chinese chef?’” Vladimir Reis, 38, says with a chuckle. He opened Dim Sum Rio almost two years ago in Laranjeiras, a wealthy neighborhood of the city.
“They ask me why I make Asian food and not African or Brazilian food,” said Reis. “But I am free to do what I like, without being restricted by what people think I should do because of the color of my skin or the country I come from.”
Things are going very well for this burly man with thin dreadlocks down to his shoulders. His dim sums are wildly popular and he has been named a winner in a new competition called the Black Gastronomy Prize.
This contest, whose first edition was held in November, honors the best black restaurant industry people in Rio in an array of categories such as waiter, sommelier, sous chef and pastry chef, all in a country where racism is deeply ingrained.
“There are many nice stories, and the time has come to acknowledge all of this talent,” said Breno Cruz, a university professor who created the prizes.
‘White universe’
Best restaurant honors went to Afro Gourmet, run by Dandara Batista, 37, who serves up African dishes in Grajau, a working-class neighborhood of Rio.
In the small kitchen of the eatery she opened in 2018, she fixes a dish called hauca rice — originally from Nigeria and featuring shrimp, dried meat and a golden sauce that is a blend of coconut milk and palm oil.
The menu also boasts a dish from Senegal called mafe and a South African one called chakalaka. Batista highlights where her creations come from by adorning them with little flags corresponding to the country.
Batista said she always felt a strong connection to the food of the northeastern city of Bahia, where her father’s family comes from.
“But when I did some research I realized there is a strong African influence on Brazilian cuisine in general,” said Batista, who wears her thick hair in braids.
Batista has been cooking since she was a girl but thought of it as a career option only after working for many years as a journalist.
“Gastronomy was always linked to a white universe, so I did not see myself there,” said Batista.
She switched jobs four years ago after taking a class in gastronomy.
She lamented the fact that there were no courses on African cuisine, so she learned how to make dishes from countries far from Brazil such as Angola, Cape Verde, and Sao Tome and Principe.
‘No reference point’
Like Batista, Reis’s life was also influenced by things not Brazilian, in his case a trip to Singapore. “When I saw dim sum the first time I thought it was marvelous, so delicate. Right away I said to myself, ‘we don’t have this in Rio.’”
Reis, born and raised in Rio, gives a personal touch to his dishes, using cassava and palm oil, which are basic ingredients in Brazilian and African cooking. At Dim Sum Rio, he decorates his dishes with edible flowers and green leaves of cabbage to cover them, like little roofs.
Reis had worked in several restaurants but never made it all the way to chef. Although he has a strong resume, he says that in job interviews white colleagues with less experience would always beat him out.
“They always wanted me to be a sous chef, or a basic cook,” said Reis, who grew up in a favela, or slum, in central Rio called Santa Teresa.
In Brazil black or mixed-race people account for 54 percent of the population but only 30 percent of leadership positions in companies.
Reis says he would have started his own business earlier if he had seen more black chefs in the news media.
“I only saw black chefs on reality shows from other countries. Here in Brazil I had no reference point. The job market has opened up in the last few years but racism is still very much a part of society.”
International
Maduro and Petro meet for the fourth time in just a few months
March 24 |
The presidents of Venezuela and Colombia, Nicolás Maduro and Gustavo Petro, met on Thursday in Caracas where they addressed issues of economic, commercial, financial, political and cultural cooperation, according to official sources.
“Productive and warm working meeting with the President of the Republic of Colombia, Gustavo Petro. We set out to deepen the alliances between Venezuela and Colombia, and we are achieving it with union and commitment. Always welcome to this sister land!”, Maduro simply wrote on his Twitter account on Thursday night.
Shortly after, through the official account of the Presidency of Colombia, it was reported that the leaders discussed issues related to the “joint fight against drug trafficking, the opening of consulates and the Summit of countries of the region to be held within the framework of the Amazon Cooperation Treaty Organization (ACTO)”.
The meeting, in which several high-ranking officials participated, among them the Colombian Foreign Minister, Alvaro Leyva; the president of the Venezuelan National Assembly, Jorge Rodriguez; the Colombian ambassador in Venezuela, Armando Benedetti, took place at the Aquiles Nazoa Cultural House, former presidential residence, and ended without a public statement.
Petro’s visit was scheduled for Monday, but was cancelled amid a corruption scandal in the state-owned oil industry, Petroleos de Venezuela (PDVSA), for which several high-ranking public officials have been arrested.
Following the reestablishment of diplomatic relations in August last year, after Petro took office, the leaders have already held three bilateral meetings in Caracas and one at the Atanasio Girardot International Bridge, which links the state of Táchira with the Department of Norte de Santander.
On that occasion, in February of this year, they signed a partial scope agreement of a commercial nature and Petro said he hoped that the bridges “will be filled with trade” and “people” on both sides of the border.
Consulted by Voice of America, Juan Francisco Contreras, internationalist and president of the College of Internationalists of Venezuela (CODEIV), exposes that the absence of details of the agenda generates “many speculations” and considers that one of the topics that has caused Petro’s frequent visits to Caracas are the peace negotiations of his government with the National Liberation Army (ELN).
For the internationalist with studies in security and defense, both Venezuela and Colombia are interested in the demobilization of the groups that are “outside the law on both sides of the border”.
However, he considers that there is a “rush” on the part of Petro to achieve results and believes that the priority should focus on establishing “objectives and guidelines” so that the process “does not end badly” as in the case of the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC).
In his opinion, Colombia is also interested in a democratic solution to the Venezuelan political crisis, which, he believes, would allow the return of many Venezuelans in the neighboring country.
Contreras does not see, so far, that there has been a real “normalization” in trade relations.
“The way in which the economic policy has been designed in our country has affected Venezuelan businessmen, there is practically no credit, the transportation issue is very complicated, there are many situations that make our businessmen to be in difficult conditions to be able to compete with other businessmen. Changes must be made so that our businessmen can be competitive”, he explains.
In 2015, after a diplomatic crisis with the Colombian government, Maduro ordered to close the passage of vehicles on the border with Colombia and in 2018 the Venezuelan government expelled consular officials.
Relations between Maduro and former President Iván Duque, who recognized Juan Guaidó as interim president of Venezuela, were marked by constant mutual accusations, especially since 2019 when humanitarian aid was attempted to enter through the border.
International
Paraguay opens criminal case against former president and current vice-president
March 24 |
Paraguay’s attorney general on Thursday opened a criminal case against a former president and the current vice president over US allegations that they were involved in corruption and had links to a terrorist group.
Attorney General Emiliano Rolón Fernández said a task force will examine U.S. allegations that former President Horacio Cartes and current Vice President Hugo Velázquez “undermined the stability of Paraguay’s democratic institutions” due to “their involvement in significant corruption.”
Cartes and Velázquez have previously denied the allegations.
Separately, the US government placed three individuals on a list of officials implicated in “acts of corruption” and banned them from entering the US along with members of their immediate families. The list, begun in 2019, now totals nine officials.
Washington made explosive allegations in January that Cartes and Velazquez had ties to the Middle Eastern extremist group Hezbollah, designated by the US as a terrorist organization.
The United States has long maintained that the tri-border region between Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay is a hub for financing terrorism with laundered money from illicit activities. It has also identified alleged Hezbollah members using front companies in the region to finance terrorist activities in the Middle East.
The U.S. government also accused Cartes, described as one of Paraguay’s wealthiest men, of widespread bribery of officials and lawmakers.
The officials included on Thursday on the corruption list were former head of the National Directorate of Civil Aeronautics Edgar Melgarejo; Jorge Bogarín, a member of a panel that disciplines judges and prosecutors; and judicial secretary Vicente Ferreira.
The designations came after the State Department received credible information that Melgarejo embezzled public funds for personal gain during his tenure and that Bogarían and Ferreira interfered in judicial proceedings for their personal benefit.
“Acts of corruption such as these contribute to the decline of trust in government and the public perception of corruption and impunity within the office of the vice president of Paraguay,” U.S. Ambassador to Paraguay Marc Ostfield said Thursday.
Melgarejo told local press he was surprised by the designation and said he was unaware of the reasons why the United States included him on the list of those implicated in corruption.
Paraguay’s prosecutor will also examine corruption allegations against Juan Carlos Duarte, legal advisor to the entity that runs the binational Yaciretá dam, jointly owned by Argentina and Paraguay, in the investigation.
International
Peruvian Congress approves indictment of Pedro Castillo’s former ministers
March 23 |
The plenary of the Peruvian Congress approved on Wednesday the constitutional accusation against the former president of the Council of Ministers, Betssy Chávez, and the former ministers of Interior, Willy Huerta, and of Foreign Trade and Tourism, Roberto Sánchez, for the alleged crimes of rebellion and conspiracy.
The accusation against Betssy Chávez was supported with 66 votes in favor, 11 against and 6 abstentions. Likewise, she was suspended from her functions as congresswoman with 66 votes in favor, 15 against and 3 abstentions.
With 57 votes in favor, 18 against and 10 abstentions, it was approved to constitutionally accuse former Minister of the Interior Willy Huerta.
Regarding Sanchez, the accusation was approved with 50 votes in favor, 21 against and 13 abstentions. However, the former Minister of Foreign Trade and Tourism of Peru will be able to continue in his functions as congressman while the investigations against him last.
The three former officials of former president Pedro Castillo are accused of the events that took place on December 7, 2022, when the former president tried to dissolve the Parliament.
After the approval of the constitutional accusations, the file will be sent to the Peruvian Attorney General’s Office, which is the entity in charge of filing the respective criminal complaint before the Supreme Court of Justice within five days.
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